paestum

 

fishing net in abruzzo

 

how this for a view? the concrete carpark

 

On the East Coast

Hello again, hope you are all keeping well. Glad to hear that the weather is improving in England, though how long that will last given it is Wimbledon.... I’ not going to mention the weather here as it appears that I am getting little sympathy, just to say that Kye has been having trouble adjusting – seems to spend most of his time asleep, so no difference there then!

Talking of sport- the last night in Gallipoli was the Euro 2012 match between England and Italy. I happened to be at the bar checking my emails when they were setting up a big screen and lots of people started to arrive, so being curious ( and not having seen a tv since I left) I went over to see what was happening. Sat down and started to watch then realised that I was outnumbered about 400 to 1 so decided that discretion was the better part of valour, wished the lads well and beat a retreat.  Found out the result the next night and decided it had been the right move.

 I left Gallipoli on Monday morning and headed off towards Lecce which is supposed to have a wonderful Baroque centre- took me a lot longer than I had anticipated and arrived to discover a very large and very busy city, round and round I went looking for the old part, got very hot, frazzled, lost so decided I had seen a lot of baroque in the past weeks and left- sometimes I’m not the greatest sightseer. But I did have a destination in mind- a very old town called Matera which I reached just in time to find my overnight stop.

Matera is famous for its old town called the sassi – houses cut into caves, people were still living in these caves up to the 1950’s and not through choice, it was one of the poorest places and malaria ridden areas in the country, there was such an outrage about children dying of the disease that the government of the day was forced to do something. It is really quite fascinating and has an interesting energy/feel to it. Wandering around one could get a sense of a real community, the part I was in had a number of music academies so there were sounds of different instruments wafting in the air, quite entrancing.

My overnight stop was at an agrotourism site, only took 10 campers but outside town with horses, goats, peacocks and no cicadas much to Kyes relief. To my relief they had hot showers – the first for 5 days – lovely! Oh and a nice restaurant where they only served local dishes – no pizzeria here.

The last couple of nights I have been on a very relaxed, and relaxing site just outside Paestum, south of Naples. The site opens directly onto a lovely long sandy beach with good sea – big rollers and surf.

Went to visit the site today, Paestum has one of the largest Greek temple complexes outside of Greece , 2 of the temples are in great condition and the museum has explanations in English which makes it so much more interesting- had heard about it a long time ago and has been on my list – it did not disappoint!

So tomorrow on my way to Naples, well, just outside to meet good pal Weeze who is coming over for a few nights. She has booked us into a dog friendly b and b, not sure which I’m looking forward to the most, seeing her or sleeping in a bed (only joking Weeze) both are going to be great. Am sure we will fit in some sightseeing as well as lots of chat.

With that I’ll sign off. Hope that Andy Murray isn’t causing too much stress no doubt the papers are full of will he won’t he, lets hope he does.

Ciao from a cold and wet Italy. (and if you believe that you’ll believe anything!)

Phew, its hot!!

Hello all,
Just a quick post today to let you know that I am just outside Gallipoli on the plantar surface ( or underneath) of the heel of Italy- no I didn't realise there was another one either!,

Am staying on a largish campsite that would be hell if it was busy but as it isnt its fine. It does have a lovely pool area so have decided to stay for a few days and just stop, feeling a bit weary from the heat ( sorry to go on about it) and also didnt have the best of sleeps in the concrete car park due to the security lights, then the next night camped in a pine woods as there were absolutely no campsites for miles around. Had had a great day sightseeing- largest caves inEurope- grotto di Castallena- google it for some amazing sights and then the Truli area- little conical houses specific to this area.

The scenery is very like Greece - quite barren, olive groves,pine wods and loudest cicadas I have ever heard, having real problems getting Kye out of  Betsy cause hes cared of the noise!

Right, thats my lot for now- internet access not that easy so will be in touch again soon.
Ciao for now.
x

view from campsite in volterra

 

Basilica in Assisi

 

The Italian Adriatic Coast

Well, I guess you've all painted lovely mind pictures having read the title of today's message and yes- some of the scenery has been stunning, and I bet you are conjuring up a picture of the campsite we are at tonight- well, I bet that you couldnt get near it. I'm just outside a little town called Polignano a Mare which has great reviews in the Lonely Planet, the old town is jutting out on limestone cliffs with caves and waves crashing.

And where am I camped in the midst of all this natural beauty? Why - a huge concrete car park of course! Its actually an 'area de sosta' which are basically sites for campers and lorries, they provide  basic services, but this one has got showers and free  wifi all for th princely sum of 10 euros. And before anyone starts getting anxious, it has great security, there are 5 other campers here including an Australian couple who had stayed the night before so am quite safe, if not entranced. But it was the only place to stay, no campsites for 10 ks either side of the town and  it really was time to stop.

Been steamy hot today, even the Italians are commenting. But its been a good day, driven down the autoroute from just south of Pescara on the Eastern Coast to Bari-lovely city, spent a bit of time wondering the streets in the old city then went down to the ferry port and booked my ferry to Greece- July 7th with Superfast ferries, chose them because they have an open board option after July 1st - this means that you can sleep in your camper and use all the facilities on board with no extra cost. This also means that Kye can stay in the van, other ferry operators require you to put them into a kennel, for which you have to pay. Anyway, seems like a really sensible option for an overnight crossing. And now I've decided on a date I can work out a bit of an itinerary.

Seems like there is lots to explore round this area of Puglia and then the heel of Italy, but depending on time I might drive round the whole foot but definitely want to visit Herculaneum and Paestum which are both in the Naples area - anyway, wait and see.

Also wanted to say thanks for the nice comments you have been sending either via the blog or emails, glad you are liking my ramblings. I enjoy doing it too. Will have another go at some photos.
Right off for a nice cold shower - Thursday is forecast 40 degrees- will make sure am not in concrete car park!
Bye for now,
Jx

Bon Giourno from the top of a mountain overlooking Assisi, on a very hot afternoon.

 We’re camped in the middle of a pine forest so have some shade and a little breeze, its wonderfully peaceful, a resident blackbird is singing his heart out all day, but so glad he doesn’t turn into a nightingale when the sun goes down!

Quite a lot has happened since I last wrote so you might be best to put the kettle on or pour a glass.

I spent 2 days in Pisa and really enjoyed it- went down to the south of the city across the river to get a feel of the real Pisa and then later in the day went back to visit the sights. What I wasn’t prepared for was how beautiful the whole place is, and whilst it was good to see the leaning tower I was completely blown away by the Duomo and the Baptistry – I spent a very happy couple of hours wandering around ending up with a campari and soda in a pavement bar. That night there was yet another tremendous rainstorm, made me feel quite at home

The next morning I pottered about a bit putting off the moment I was going to have face the roads and all these mad Italian drivers, had been hearing horrific stories of being nearly forced off the road by other campers. Well, as I couldn’t sit in the campsite in Pisa until my money ran out I girded my loins (metaphorically) and set out for Lucca. Well, what a breeze that was! Before I knew it I was there and had no problems at all, driving along a lovely road with the most amazing scenery.

Into Lucca, and to be honest I wasn’t that impressed, walked around a bit, found the cathedral which was closed, found two other churches I wanted to see, which were closed, so decided that I would leave and head for Sienna.
Decided to take the smaller roads so that I would see San Gimgiano en route so after a few detours round parts of Lucca that you normally wouldn’t see as a tourist I found the right road. (By the way, aren’t roundabouts great? If you’re not sure which road it is you can just keep going round- my record is 4 circuits so far!)

Anyway cutting a long story short, I drove through the stunning Tuscan countryside all the time climbing and climbing, I was going via a town called Volterra where I would turn off to SG; when the turn came I looked at the road which was even narrower than the one I was on, and with my promises not to do anything foolish ringing in my ears, sighed and continued along the Volterra road. SG would have to wait for another time. Sienna here I come.

Except – up and up we went, round and round we went, switchbacks and corners with the road narrowing the higher we climbed and no option than to keep going. Betsy was a star, didn’t quite have to change into 1st but there were a few moments when I wasn’t sure we were going to make it especially when we went round a very tight bend and met a lorry coming towards us. But the bonus of course was the view, breathtaking- unspoilt  mountains and valleys.
 Just as I was thinking how nice it would be to stay round there up popped a sign for a campsite and that’s how I came to discover the lovely hill town of Volterra.

The campsite was just lovely, very relaxed, nice areas to walk Kye off the lead and not too busy. The walk into the old town was about 25mins (uphill) through the more modern town which was vibrant, lively with childrens laughter and such friendly people, the old town was stunning and blew Lucca in to a cocked hat.

Met some lovely people at the campsite, an English couple Andy and Pam who have been travelling around Italy, got married on Elba and have decided they want to make Volterra their home and a Belgian couple Eric and Galetta   who were on holiday and were sad to be leaving. We had a very happy evening drinking more of the local red than was probably wise (well the boys did anyway).

After 2 nights there I decided to head for Sienna and Assisi, after all I had been in Italy for 4 nights and only travelled 60 kilometres. So up early to miss the traffic and the crowds and arrived in Sienna by 9.30am. Parked up just outside the city walls, in the shade for Kye, and in I went. Well,  as soon as I entered the city I was in love, everything about it. The piazzas, the architecture, the Duomo which is an art gallery in itself and could take a day to really appreciate. I realised that there was no way I could do justice to this wonderful city so decided that I would leave with the intent of going back for a proper stay, outside of summer, sometime in the future. So with a bit of a heavy heart I got on the road to Assisi.


Scenery changed as we went from Tuscany to Umbria- rolling hills rather than mountain peaks, bypassed Perugia (pretty town, big traffic jam) then arrived in Assisi. Been a long held wish to visit here and it hasn’t disappointed. Apart from the St Francis connection, which is what has drawn me, I hadn’t appreciated what a beautiful city it is. I’ve had a very special time here, one which will always stay with me.

So, I’m planning to be off tomorrow, was originally going to go to Orvieto and see the cathedral there but think I have had a surfeit of cathedrals, religious paintings and hill cities so think I’ll head off towards Puglia and find the sea- who knows? But when I’ve got there I’ll let you know where I am.

Sorry this has been a mini novel rather than a post- hope its been worth reading.

Ciao!

 
 

 
 

 

Yes, its me again, twice in 48 hours but just wanted you to know that I have landed safely in Italy and am at a campsite  about 10mins walk from the centre of Pisa. Charging a huge amount of money compared with France but then again - location, location, location!

Thought I'd give you a few statistics from the last couple of weeks:

Driven 1928km, highest point was 560m.

Average price of campsite - 15e per night

Average price of baguette - 1.10e

Average price of cup coffee - 3.00e, same as beer, wine much cheaper at 3e per bottle- no contest!

Diesel 1.35e in supermarkets, 1.45e in garages

Number of GB plates seen in Corsica- 1

%of people met in France and Corsica who spoke English - 20%

% of people who laughed at my pathetic attempts to speak French (not including Irene,) 50%- the others just sighed!

Number of conversations I have had in English since I arrived on this campsite  - 6!

As for the weather - torrential rain all last night, forecast cloudy and overcast – I’m sharing your pain!

Bye for now

 Hello from sunny Corsica on Saturday June 9th. Sounds like you all had a great Jubilee celebration, I watched it on I Player and it just shows that we Brits can show the world how to party, will also admit it brought a bit of a tear to my eye or maybe it was just dust.
Irene and I spent the night  at a French Passion Farm - now now, don't get too excited - its the name of an organisation of farmers who offer free overnight stops in exchange for you buying their produce. Well ours went one step better and had a little restaurant under the pine trees, also open to the public, so we spent a very happy evening there. the most beautiful views over the valley and a lovely walk around the fields. Didn't feel it was appropriate to bring out the union jacks i had brought for the occasion but think those will come in useful later in the trip - tell you more when its time.

Now, I know I keep talking about the fabulous scenery we have been passing through and would love to show you pictures but am having real difficulty getting my head around picasa 3 and Livedrive briefcase - I need a Nick, ( sorry for those of you who dont know what I'm talking about, just bear with me) Do hope that I will get some photos on soon.

So, after the Camargue we drove down through Provence to Toulon - I can just hear you francophiles screaming at the thought of just driving through one of the most beautiful parts of the country but we had a reason, we really wanted to get to Corsica in time for Irene to see some of it. We did have a little stop in a very small town in Provence where we very nearly created a diplomatic incident when we drove into the field where they were preparing for a big procession that all the town was waiting to see - lots of horses, a band, a girl all dressed up who was obviously the centre of attention - until we arrived that was.

 And why did we drive in there  I hear you ask? Well, because we are good drivers who didnt want to block the road and followed the parking signs- how were we to know that they led to the field in question and that the entrance was only just wide enough to get Betsy through  and that they were going to make us turn around - how ould we know?? Well, it was absolute chaos - men shouting at us, Kye barking, a policeman trying to manoeuvre us out by shouting in the loudest French we had ever heard - are you getting the picture? So glad Irene was driving. Anyway, she got us out and we beat a hasty retreat thinking we might not be welcome.

So down to Toulon which was very noisy because there was a rugby semi final and they won-then Irene remembered  Jonny Wilkinson played for Toulon so we celebrated with them. Got the overnight ferry to Ajaccio which was sooo comfortable - our cabin was bigger than Betsy and we had beds! One each! with pillows!! except that I had to have Kye who was very good as I had slipped him some calm you down pills. Arrived the next morning after a good night sleep and a nice breakfast and off we went again.

Both of us fell in love with Corsica as soon as we got on the road- stunning countryside, wild forests, mountains, long sandy beaches and little coves with azure blue seas. Quieter roads though goodness knows what they would be like in the summer when the hordes arrive. We did a lot of sight seeing including prehistoric sites, roman remains and lots of citadels and old towns - all worth a visit.
The campsites have been so much more relaxed and we've had a really enjoyable time. Then the sad morning when Irene had to go back to real life, unsurprisingly there were a few tears on both sides but then the stiff upper lip came back into play ( along with the rescue remedy) and we both just got on. Irene flew Calvi to Marseille to Gatwick, I went to Calvi to buy a ferry ticket for Italy on unday afternoon and then got out of there because we were on one of the least favoured campsites - everyone in their place and woe betide anyone who steps out of place.

We did have a bit of a crisis when we discovered the water pump on Betsy had packed up - but its no real problem as water is easily available and it does mean less weight so easier to get up the hills.
I have spent the last 3 nights at a lovely relaxed, ramshackle campsite on the beach just outside st Jean de Floret on the northwest coast - sure it was a lovely little fishing town once  but now it has a big marina with big boats and women with big hair, but tucked round the corner is the locals marina - much more my style.

So Italy beckons tomorrow- think it will be a bit of a shock after this peaceful sojurn but these past days have reminded me that I am on holiday not a route march so will definately make sure I have some down time.

Thats all for now, thanks to everyone who has emailed, appreciate hearing news or send me a text-either way good to hear.
Bye for now.
Jane x

Hi All,
Thinking of you starting to celebrate the Jubilee- hope you all have a great time. Its Saturday and we are down on the Camargue at a campsite on the beach,  sun is shining with a lovely breeze which is such a relief after the last couple of days.
We've been at Carcassone which I have wanted to visit for many years- it really is a little fairytale castle up on the hill but it transpires that the turrets are not original, added in the 19th c- also its rather a tourist trap but we visited in the evening so it was  peaceful. Am starting to understand why people asked if I was bringing  bicycle- we are walking miles but helps wear off the croissants!

Learned a salutory lesson this morning when we were leaving the campsite- don't let the fuel get too low and ask at the campsite where the nearest one is;, we went round Carcassone for a good half hour  ( even using the satnav) before we could fill up and get on our way - think we only saw 4 petrol stations in the first 15mins of travelling.

So our original plan was to head up into Provence but as were driving we decided to head down this way, only just got into the area and we saw a huge flock of flamingoes and the white horses are everywhere- just like the New Forest really. We have been seeing the most amazing scenery as we've driven down -I never realised that France was so beautiful - the other thing we have noticed as we come further south is the change in the cars- definitely moving up in the world- porsches etc- wonder what we'll see as we move closer to Nice- probably just like the carpark at the McIndoe!

And on the note- bye for now
Jane and gang