St Stephens Day

 So the next day dawned- beautiful weather - always the way isnt it? But as planned met a few friends for lunch at a great place on the beach- Hola Ola- very Spanish, great food and good prices. I treated myself to a Tanqueray and schweppes ( 5e's) but that's what you pay for a Larias and cheap tonic so reckoned I was worth it! Left to right is Jenni, Dermot ( guess you'll all have the magnifying glasses out) and Sherry. It was the first time that Jenni and Sherry had met so we excused Dermot after a couple of hours as  his eyes were beginning to glaze- we were still at it a couple of hours later!

So, as you can see my festive period passed very happily which I hope was the same for you all.
Since then both Kye and I have been a bit under the weather - I contacted a horrid cold from goodness who knows where and he contacted a parasitic infection - hes absolutely fine in himself but you just don't want to know whats been coming out of his bum- all I can say is that I have found a great vet and am very glad that I dont have carpets!! He is currently enjoying a diet of rice with chicken, white fish, cottage cheese or eggs- harrumph!

So next on the agenda is New Years eve and then the run up to the 3 Kings so will be back. Its unlikely to be before January 1st so I would like to wish you all a heartfelt Happy New Year and may 2104 bring you all you wish for.

Bye for now.
Jane x

Christmas Eve afternoon!!

 Who would have believed that after this lovely afternoon we would have had the worst gales for years and in fact on that very morning the earth moved for me -no, nothing to do with Dermot ( have you guessed he hasnt got the blog address?) but an earthquake which measured 3 on the Richter scale. Okay not very big but it was my first. And actually it was the noise that woke me - thought someone had dropped a gas cylinder just outside the house- the epicentre was in Carboneras, a town about 20K's along the coast. So obviously no damage and none form the gales unike the poor people who lost power and water.

I had a lovely day at the markets and then was invited to celebrate Christmas Eve in the village, joined Dermot to spend the evening with his Spanish friends - they live in the most fantastic apartment - a little wooden front door that belies what it behind it- like the Tardis, just jaw dropping. So a lovely evening was had by all, I drove and still enjoyed myself so that says a lot! I also learned quite a bit about current Spanish politics - enough to make your hair curl, just be grateful for Cameron et al is all I can say- may be the subject of a blog in the New Year.

Sadly Christmas day dawned cold, grey, wet and very windy - not the sort of day for a picnic (though I do have vivid memories of going on picnics in just such weather when I was a girl) - and I really didnt fancy driving along the coastal road - one strong gust and we would be over so the decision was made to defer to another day.
But still had a happy day- Sherry and I spent the day together, ate the picnic lunch, braved the elements when we took the dogs down to the beach then I settled down to watch Call the Midwife with millions of others. And not a paper hat in sight - hurrah!!

Christmas Decorations

For the first time I'vegot the point of poinsettias - they look lovely when they are planted - will take a photo of the roundabouts next time i'm up there and its not raining- yes, I'm sharing your pain just that I'm sitting watching the sea and its still magical. Shortest day today so from tomorrow we're on the road to Spring - hurrah!

Christmas celebrations have started in earnest here- there's been a carol concert in the local hall - all very jolly with  guitars, castanets and most people singing the same tune - great fun especially jingle bells in Spanish. Tomorrow there's a band concert in the church, think I'll sit at the back just in case they're not over rehearsed.

Have met a new friend- Dermot , no prizes for guessing nationality - hes lived here for 11 years, very taken with Betsy and has done loads of travelling- walked the camino earlier this year, so lots to talk about. He knows lots of local bars so have had a couple of good evenings out in the tapas bars in Garrucha. He's joining Sherry and I on our trip out to Capa de Gata on Christmas Day so that will be fun. Had Betsy serviced this week as she had a bit of an oil leak so shes raring to go. Have been asked about Kye- hes really well- having a new lease of life as no sign of any arthritis- running and jumping on the beach every day and raring to go - had forgotten just how lively he can be - did his old trick of running off with Jills jacket when she and Jenni came for lunch and had his head in their handbags - all those endearing tricks of his that most of you will have had to contend with!

Think thats all for now - oh, great, the rains stopped so think I'll have lunch on the balcony.

Bye for now, happy holidays

The Village

The Lovely Lynne

 Here we are sitting in a cafe in Mojacar Pueblo - the old town also known as the village. You can see the views- they are amazing. This was the last evening before she and Tony returned to the UK for a few weeks - neither of us had enough clothes on cause we had been fooled by the blue skies.

Winter has arrived - some days are glorious but it is really weird- like living in two totally different climates - by about 11am the sun has some heat in it and in the afternoon I can be sitting on the balcony in a sleeveless t shirt and cut offs then by 4,30pm the layers start and by 5.30 its thermals, fleeces, socks and sitting under blankets - mind you I'm not complaining. Just that the temperature drop took me by surprise but now I have invested in a gas heater and hit the charity shops for warm clothes all is well. Will know for next year.

Life is settling into a sort of routine, I won't go into details because I still want to have friends when I return to the UK - favourite day is Wednesday cause thats market day in the village - its very small compared to Garrucha - next town along the coast, but I am very fond of it- have found a couple of ladies who bring their homegrown produce - no more expensive than the other stalls, so as with all homegrown veges it is so much tastier. They also have sausage, their own dried herbs, beans, sun dried and salted tomatoes, soap- you get the idea. They are also very tolerant of my halting Spanish.

Sadly its not even as good as my 'Allo Allo' French. I go to Spanish class every week but I have very little opportunity to practice so of course it wont improve but I can read and understand quite a bit so thats good.

Days do tend to run into each other, like being on an etended holiday, so I am having difficulty realising that Christmas is less than two weeks away. Its very low key here which suits me down to the ground as you will all know. There are some nice street decorations and a nativity scene in the village but apart from that nothing much else unless of course you go into the English bars and restaurants where the obligatory tinsel and balls, santas and fake christmas tree are displayed - say no more.

The important days for the Spanish are Christmas Eve and Epiphany when they celebrate the 3 Kings arriving- thats when the children receive their gifts. The other celebration is New Year of course when the tradition is that you eat 12 grapes- one with each chime- if you manage it means you will have a successful year. Guess one of the keys is to make sure the grapes are seedless - otherwise you may not make it to the 1st!
My plan for the day itself is to pack a picnic and head off in Betsy to the Capo Di Gata which is about an hour away- its a national park with an amazing coastline- a friend Sherry and her lovely dog will be coming along too.

So, as I don't have a postal address I will assume all your good wishes. And I would like to wish you all a Feliz Navidad - hope it is stress free and joyous.
Bye for now 

Part 2

 Sorry this isnt a great picture but have been asked for other photos of the house and this is the best I have got. Hope you get the idea.
Now, where was I? This area is a real mixture of expat land and authentic Spain, no prizes for guessing which bit interests me the most but it is convenient to be able to speak English whilst I'm learning Spanish. And sadly I have to admit that it is true that it is harder to remember the older we get- can recognise words and their translations but when it comes to actually using them- well I know they're in there somewhere. Going to spanish classes once a week and practising when I go shopping- Lynne was very good and made me speak instead of asking her, did nearly get myself into trouble at the market as the word for enough is bastanta and I keep saying bastarda! so a tip is to think of asti spumante but of course thats what  I end up saying which causes even more confusion but at least I wont get a black eye!

Now, I am being asked about the weather and I remember the grief I got from so called friends when I told you about it last year so this time please be kinder. The days are lovely - the sun is shining the majority of the day and out of the wind it can get very hot however there is normally a strong wind in the mornings and the temperature does drop very suddenly when the sun goes down and boy then it does feel cold. The spanish are walking round in coats and scarves and boots and I'm in short sleeved t shirt and cut offs on the beach.  I hate to say but it is fab- the sea is a stunning colour and the sky is blue. However cold weather is on the way, there has already been snow in Alicante just up the coast, and the houses aren't built for it with marble floors and no insulation so its up to the market to buy sweaters and get the rugs out - but as most of you know I am a hardy soul having  lived at the farm for 10years without heating.

Think thats probably enough for today - may be outstaying my welcome at the bar cause i've been using their wifi for ages now- internet at home not an option because my little laptop runs too slowly but can get my emails so its not really an issue.

So, hope all is well with everyone, will talk again soon.

At Last!

 Sorry its taken so long to post a message, hope it will be worth waiting for. My first week in the house flew by getting organised and unpacking Betsy- hadnt realised how much i hd managed to get into her and its lovely casue ive got some of my favourite things around me so it really feels like home. The house needed a bit of caring for as well because its not been rented out very much and the owner hasnt been for a few years so lots of old papers etc needed to be cleared away. And then of course needed to get ready for my first visitor- Irene arrived in week two laden down like a packhorse with bits for me,I think everyday she got a new request including tealights (hugely expensive here) vintage cheddar cheese -so do be prepared if you are planning a trip. We had a lovely few days finding new places to go and the weather was goregous. And talk of a smal world- we went to one of the beach bars and bumped into two friends of mine from Cuckfield - Sue and Andrew Ponsford who were down here in their camper van! (They were the people who very kindly let me house sit while they were away in Feb) They were back in town this week so spent a really enjoyable lunch together.
(Part 2 with next photo- this is Irene on beach early morning)

view the other way

Moving Day!!

 !st November and the start of  a new chapter in my life.
My new home is the third on the left with the clear view of the pool and stunning views of the sea, which is only 6 mins walk. Two bedrooms so lots of space for visitors, nearest airport is Almeria.

Its a really peacefull little community with a few residents- so far have met one English lady, a Spanish couple, an other Spanish chap and my neighbours are an Italian couple with their daughter who is Spanish so it will be a lovely mix.

Right- must away and do my packing - huge thanks to Lynne and Tony who have opened their home and their hearts to Kye and I, without them this wouldn't have happened. Will be back when I've got my internet sorted, till then, hasta luego.
Jx

Quick update

Hi All
Just to say we're in Mojacar, sunshines lovely as are Lynne and Tony and I'm househunting! Will be in touch again soon.
Jx

Last one for now

Sorry there are so many but  have been to so many places - and this my friends was the icing on the cake- Caceres in Extramedura - if you're a fan of medieval cities then this is the one for you- its hard to describe- just perfect because its not a museum piece, there is life going on in all the plazas, the new town is bright and buzzy and the Plaza Mayor, the biggest one is just fantastic- doesnt come alive until 9pm and then keeps on until the early hours (so I'm told - would have loved a date those nights) Its well known for its fiestas and processions especially at Easter, there is also a Womad there in May- free of charge and evidently at the smaller plazas people are climbing up the walls to see the bands- must be fantastic.

Anyway, left there after a couple of days and headed east for 100k's to visit Guadeloupe - yet another pilgrimage site, and that was an another amazing place to visit- its right up in the mountains, the town is small and quite scruffy, quite poor I think but then there is this amazing monastery - a lovely area and not well off the tourist map I think- well I didnt see another campervan for 3 days.

And now, the other end of the spectrum - after a very long day driving I finally arrived in Cordoba yday. At the municipal campsite at 31e a night! but am only 2 k's out of town and it does include wifi and electricity so am charging up everything I can find!
  Have spent the day looking round the city and unsurprisingly I am now starting to feel weary - running the danger of everywhere merging into one so am going to make my way to Granada and then after then to Mojacar to visit Lynne and Tony and have a stop.

So thats me, still having a great time and just really grateful that I have the opportunity of seeing all these amazing places but am really looking forward to chilling out. Bye for now

Tomar and a farewell to Portugal

 So, if you've been paying attention you'll know that the big draw is the Convento de Cristo - the most complete Knights Templar castle in Western Europe. It sits on top of the hill overlooking a very nice town, with a very good municipal campsite with a little bread van at 9am (how civilised, normally its 8am so its a mad scramble with everyone in their pj's)

This photo is of the church, got very excited when i saw it then very disappointed to learn that the interior is closed for refurbishment - and I'd come so far. Yet another of my travel disappointments - got to Cairo -the tutankhamoun exhibition had just moved to London, Moscow- Bolshoi ballet in London, Amsterdam - Van Gogh exhibition in London. At least this time the rest of the building could still be visited - and it did live up to expectations -bit of useless information for you -  they built the churches so high so they could attend mass on horseback.
I had a really enjoyable couple of days in Tomar, the weather was really pleasant and I just pottered about- v nice

Then it was time to leave Portugal and head back to Spain. I had enjoyed it and the countryside was lovely but the people seem to be very grumpy- I was told this by an English couple who said once you got to know them they were lovely but seemed very standoffish- maybe I noticed it more cause I'm travelling on my own so tend to smile at people in the street or exchange a couple of pleasantries, then again the language doesnt help - definately sounds Polish or Eastern European. Though I did meet some nice English people on the campsite so that was good. ( Sorry if I've offended any Portuguese people .)

Portugal continued, but I'm in Spain

 Have you missed me? Just discovered that its 10 days since i wrote and lots has happened so I'll try and catch you up.

Knowing my audience and the fact that Autumn has hit thought you would prefer a nice beach scene rather than a monsatery- but dont worry there's more of them to come.
This lovely place is about 150k's north of Lisbon just outside a place called Nazare, stopped here for a couple of nights on the way to Batalha. Went there because it has an amazing monastery but that doesnt really do it justice- the interior may be plain and unadorned but the exterior is remarkable- think its called Manueline - a Portuguese architecture which is light with spiral columns, lots of curlicues and looks amazing on Gothic architecture. After there I was heading for Tomar, but on the way stopped at Fatima. It was one of the important dates in the calendar- evidently the 12th ad 13th of each month are special dates for pilgrims so the roads were full again as I drove along but when I arrived there must have been several thousand cars, tents, caravans, you name it, in the car parks but when I got into the main area it looked empty- thats how vast it is- and dare I say it, completely soulless. Really couldnt get my heard around it for some reason and beat a hasty retreat.

Next photo coming up so time for a new page

Lots to catch up on. Part 2

 So, the next day the weather started to improve- hurrah!! and so i had a quiet day pottering around and then set off for Finisterre- yet more stunning scenery but this time with the sun peeking through. Arrived to find a nice little town with proper harbour and a little castle( which is now a fishing museum) and this little beach which is the true end of the Camino. The pilgrims come here and tradition is that they either burn or wash their socks on this beach. (They used a different one in The Way - this is the real one). So after that my Camino route was over - wheer to next I hear you ask.

Well, for those of you who have been paying attention you will know that the plan was to head down into Portugal to vist Tomar - a small town abot 150k's north of Lisbon so off I set.
Except that there appeared to be lots of nice places before there so I have been pottering along, stopping where I felt like it and have seen some lovely old towns, driven along the Douro river- stunning!- been up and over mountains heavy with vineyards and watched the men harvest the grapes the old fashioned way, transporting them in barrels on the back of tractors, been to one of the oldest university towns where the students still wear black cloaks and berets.Been on a date for coffee and port, got a great haircut for 10e and am now on the coast enjoying wonderful unseasonal weather-  I tell you its been a geat week.

so tomorrow will set off back on the sightseeing - heading for Tomar but stopping at a couple of small towns that have unesco world heritage sights both monasteries - but said to be stunning, and you know me- I'll be letting you know.

So, bye for now. See you soon

Lots to catch up on! Part 1

 Well, feels like a long time since i dropped into your inboxes, lots to say so pull up a chair!

As you can see I got to Santiago - and the weather was atrocious! Rain was horizontal and the wind was howling but all along the roadside the pilgrims plodded on- it takes a huge mental commitment to walk the whole way- have been told that it is the camaraderie that keeps one going but I dont know- getting up at 6.30am knowing that you have to walk another 20odd k's then find a bed, do your washng etc then do it all agin the next day- takes a special kind of person.

anyway, back to me- as you know I didnt do that- I did walk 2k's in the awful weather to go to the pilgrims mass which was very special for many reasons, one of them being that they lit the huge incense burner and swung it- anyone who saw The Way will know what I am talking about- it was great! Takes 7 young men to swing it- obviously there were some visiting priests taking the mass as they started smiling and taking photos so everyone else did too- wit a huge round of applause that was the end of what had been a very solemn mass. And the end of my visit to Santiago - had been there before with a good friend from Canada so didnt need to do any more sightseeing in that weather so after a warming and hearty lunch set off towards the Galician coast.

And wow- that is some coastline! Similar to Brittany - huge cliffs,wide beaches and little coves- waves crashing - just what sea ought to look like. And lots of little towns, all unspoilt with lovely golden beaches- guess its packed in the summer but now it was totally peaceful. Popped into A Coruna and found a big city with a beach so popped out again and found myself a little aire overloking a tiny little port and peace and quiet - lovely. And ate some of the best mussels ever-freshly plucked and cooked in sea water -delish!

Bit more!

This is the Gaudi designed 'palace' in Astorgas . But I also wanted to tell you about Ponferrada - a large provincial city with a university - probably the same size as Croydon. When I arrived I went to the tourist office to ask where I could park for the night- the policeman there took me into his office and switched on his computer with translation and told me that I could park anywhere in the city and not to be concerned because there would be no trouble anywhere.
So I have been parked very happily in a car park by the river,, with nobody paying the slightest notice apart from to say holas when we're out. Good eh??

Back on the road

Hello All

Really not sure where to start –I know I’ve only been on the road for 5 days but St J seems weeks ago. Will try and condense it but maybe tea/wine time again.

Adrian survived the trip over the Pyrenees, Betsy was her usual star but there was a distinct smell of something burning when we stopped at the top for a look- luckily it was downhill from then.

 Roncesvalles was an odd place- very historic- goes back to Charlemagne, site of a big battle that turned the war (dont ask me – its all in Spanish!!) Huge pilgrim hostel, a couple of restaurants and that’s it- and I realised that’s what made it feel odd- no-one lived there – everyone was just passing through. As did I, following the camino as closely as I could which meant I was doing my favourite thing- pottering along back roads seeing the real Spain and what sights I have seen- too many to mention but a few favourites – stunning scenery – alternating between massive hills, huge plains – some barren, some cultivated and green, flocks of buzzards, mountain rivers, ochre coloured towns tumbling down hill sides always with a church in the centre and empty roads that go on for ever – and always the pilgrims- on foot, on bikes – plodding along to the next stopping place where they congregate and share stories.

One morning I stopped to pick up a pair of hitchhikers, originally from Spain- Eva could speak English very well which was a huge bonus, Franco and I just smiled at each other a lot. She had developed tendonitis on the shin, a common complaint – evidently something to with the stresses climbing over the mountains – anyway, we had lots of laughs and spent  very happy day together. We visited a monastery, next door was a bodega which had taps providing wine and water for the pelegrinos so we stocked up.

Have been doing quite a bit of sightseeing along the way – most of you know that I am a bit of a fan for Gothic cathedrals so i am really in the right place – must say that all of the ones I have seen so far the one in Leon takes the biscuit- I have never seen stained glass like it either in quality or quantity – even beats Chartres, if you discount the Rose window- the other thing I loved about Leon was discovering that the word for senior ( as in concession) is Jubilados! Isnt that fab? Any political party that include that in their manifesto would have my vote. Only thing I wasn’t too jubilados about was that he didn’t question whether it applied – ah well.

The team-Delphine on left, Fernande is her pal

Hi, me again. Know I’ve only just popped into your inbox but wanted to share a special evening with you. It was my last supper at the Refuge Kaserna, great hilarity as there was a really good crowd- mixed ages and unusually a number of English speakers as well as French. Then two people walked in through the French doors and were welcomed with open arms by Delphine, the current hospitallier.

It was a girl and her husband from Costa Rica just arrived in town. It transpired that six years ago the girls father and uncle set off on Camino from St Jean Pied de Port- an hour into the walk her father dropped to his knees and died on the road from a heart attack. His brother was understandably shell shocked so Delphine took him into her home and looked after him for the 8 days it took to make all the arrangements. And now his daughter and her husband arrived to make their Camino in his memory. This morning Delphine took them to the spot where he died -

 I feel that it has been a privilege to have met them and the other extraordinary people I’ve met, too many to mention but who will stay in my memory for a long time -  the 86 year old French man who recently arrived from Vezelay –  what drove him on, what drives any of them? I guess we’ll never know.

So I’m off today, feels the right time to be going, the next stage of my journey- nervous anticipation as I don’t speak Spanish but exciting to think of all the exciting new experiences waiting for me.

 

You can see why I stayed

Success!!

Here we are on our last day, before the rain came!

Still Here

Hi All,
Well, didnt quite get away as planned as really enjoying life here but am going to leave on Thursday as I think the weather is about to change and the Pyrennean mist and fog would be a shock after the lovely few days we've had - I'm told that its very unusual, well, I think thats what they said - my French is improving but sometimes I do think that I'll be sounding like the policeman from Allo Allo!  then I meet a Basque speaker so we both just smile- shades of Greece. Have met some amazing people at the hostel- 2 Dutch ladies who had walked from Utrecht already - 1500k's, so didnt think that the next 800 would be a problem - must be crackers. Also a lovely English lady, no spring chicken but an amazing indomitable spirit- she set off this am.
Talking of meeting, there's a great English chap called Adrian,  who thinks he can sort out the photo situation, fingers crossed. I'm going to drop him off at the next stopping place - fair exchange to me, however he hasn't been in Betsy while I'm driving up switchbacks, Irenes never been the same, thats why she insists on driving!

Right, must away and get ready for supper- its so much fun, great Basque home cooking, lots of laughter and all in exchange for a couple of hours cleaning in the morning - not bad eh??

Thanks for all emails, keep em coming.

St Jean de Pied Port

Hello All,

Arrived here on Wednesday afternoon and have fallen in love with this town. Its in the middle of the Pyrenees and is the beginning of one of the most famous and popular pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela. Even nowadays there are 300 pilgrims coming through the town each day. The next stage of the Camino is also the highest and toughest so many people are here building up their energy for the climb.

The Pyrenees are beautiful, they are softer than the Alps – similar to the Lake District compared with the Peak District. Am camped in the municipal campsite which is inside the medieval walls, on the river and about 1 minutes walk to the church, ( If you have a chance check the town out on Google images, I’m just down from the famous bridge)

 Its lovely and peaceful, the only sounds are the bells- either the Church or the sheep. Church bells stop at 10pm and start at 7am- very civilised! And all this for the princely sum of 10e incl electricity.

As I am staying here for a few days I have taken the opportunity to volunteer at one of the pilgrim hostels – was recommended one that is being run by a lovely French lady called Brigitte who speaks excellent English- she is running it on her own so is grateful for the help. Not onerous, apart from the early start, I have my breakfast and supper with the pilgrims and help with the cleaning in the morning which only takes a couple of hours – the mealtimes are great fun- lots of laughter and camaraderie – all in French of course but I can understand the gist of what is being said and Brigitte translates for me. She is leaving on Monday, which fits in with my plans, so will help her till then. All the hostels are run by volunteers – to be a hospitallier you have to have walked the Camino so I feel fortunate to be able to be involved.

So, I am very content here, went to see a game of Pelota last night –the Basque game similar to squash but 3 on a team with scoop shaped baskets on their hands- they can really get those balls moving; some great walking along the river, and the local wine and cheeses are gorgeous- so whats not to be happy about? Well, to make it even better it is sunny today-first time for 5days so clean knickers tonight!!

And with that thought- bye for now.