The team-Delphine on left, Fernande is her pal

Hi, me again. Know I’ve only just popped into your inbox but wanted to share a special evening with you. It was my last supper at the Refuge Kaserna, great hilarity as there was a really good crowd- mixed ages and unusually a number of English speakers as well as French. Then two people walked in through the French doors and were welcomed with open arms by Delphine, the current hospitallier.

It was a girl and her husband from Costa Rica just arrived in town. It transpired that six years ago the girls father and uncle set off on Camino from St Jean Pied de Port- an hour into the walk her father dropped to his knees and died on the road from a heart attack. His brother was understandably shell shocked so Delphine took him into her home and looked after him for the 8 days it took to make all the arrangements. And now his daughter and her husband arrived to make their Camino in his memory. This morning Delphine took them to the spot where he died -

 I feel that it has been a privilege to have met them and the other extraordinary people I’ve met, too many to mention but who will stay in my memory for a long time -  the 86 year old French man who recently arrived from Vezelay –  what drove him on, what drives any of them? I guess we’ll never know.

So I’m off today, feels the right time to be going, the next stage of my journey- nervous anticipation as I don’t speak Spanish but exciting to think of all the exciting new experiences waiting for me.

 

You can see why I stayed

Success!!

Here we are on our last day, before the rain came!

Still Here

Hi All,
Well, didnt quite get away as planned as really enjoying life here but am going to leave on Thursday as I think the weather is about to change and the Pyrennean mist and fog would be a shock after the lovely few days we've had - I'm told that its very unusual, well, I think thats what they said - my French is improving but sometimes I do think that I'll be sounding like the policeman from Allo Allo!  then I meet a Basque speaker so we both just smile- shades of Greece. Have met some amazing people at the hostel- 2 Dutch ladies who had walked from Utrecht already - 1500k's, so didnt think that the next 800 would be a problem - must be crackers. Also a lovely English lady, no spring chicken but an amazing indomitable spirit- she set off this am.
Talking of meeting, there's a great English chap called Adrian,  who thinks he can sort out the photo situation, fingers crossed. I'm going to drop him off at the next stopping place - fair exchange to me, however he hasn't been in Betsy while I'm driving up switchbacks, Irenes never been the same, thats why she insists on driving!

Right, must away and get ready for supper- its so much fun, great Basque home cooking, lots of laughter and all in exchange for a couple of hours cleaning in the morning - not bad eh??

Thanks for all emails, keep em coming.

St Jean de Pied Port

Hello All,

Arrived here on Wednesday afternoon and have fallen in love with this town. Its in the middle of the Pyrenees and is the beginning of one of the most famous and popular pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela. Even nowadays there are 300 pilgrims coming through the town each day. The next stage of the Camino is also the highest and toughest so many people are here building up their energy for the climb.

The Pyrenees are beautiful, they are softer than the Alps – similar to the Lake District compared with the Peak District. Am camped in the municipal campsite which is inside the medieval walls, on the river and about 1 minutes walk to the church, ( If you have a chance check the town out on Google images, I’m just down from the famous bridge)

 Its lovely and peaceful, the only sounds are the bells- either the Church or the sheep. Church bells stop at 10pm and start at 7am- very civilised! And all this for the princely sum of 10e incl electricity.

As I am staying here for a few days I have taken the opportunity to volunteer at one of the pilgrim hostels – was recommended one that is being run by a lovely French lady called Brigitte who speaks excellent English- she is running it on her own so is grateful for the help. Not onerous, apart from the early start, I have my breakfast and supper with the pilgrims and help with the cleaning in the morning which only takes a couple of hours – the mealtimes are great fun- lots of laughter and camaraderie – all in French of course but I can understand the gist of what is being said and Brigitte translates for me. She is leaving on Monday, which fits in with my plans, so will help her till then. All the hostels are run by volunteers – to be a hospitallier you have to have walked the Camino so I feel fortunate to be able to be involved.

So, I am very content here, went to see a game of Pelota last night –the Basque game similar to squash but 3 on a team with scoop shaped baskets on their hands- they can really get those balls moving; some great walking along the river, and the local wine and cheeses are gorgeous- so whats not to be happy about? Well, to make it even better it is sunny today-first time for 5days so clean knickers tonight!!

And with that thought- bye for now.

Help!

Have just tried to upload photos and it appears to have got hugely more complicated - if anyone can please explain to use Picasa Web albums in words I am likely to understand then please email me on betsykye@gmail.com. Thank you.

Oh, and Jaqui- thanks for your good news, please email me on above address as I cant reply to you via the blog.
Bye all, off for a walk.

Hello from the Basque country.

Sorry not to have written before but we’ve had a very full time as you will see, and I have been told to include photos so waited till they were sorted so get comfy with a cup of tea or a glass that cheers and read on.

We left Dieppe around 4pm heading towards Rouen, found a lovely little campsite by the river and had drinks and supper in the evening sun, little did we know that would be the last time we saw it for the next few days! Arrived in Orleans in the most awful rain so even though we got a parking place right next to the cathedral we didn’t stay long cause guess who had forgotten museums close on Mondays in France??

Our journey down to Beziers took us through some amazing mountain scenery via Clermont Ferrard then we came off the motorway to travel through the Gorges de Tarne – breathtaking and some very hairy driving for Irene though I think it takes courage to watch yourself hurtling towards a cliff face or a steep drop! We spent one night at a campsite by the river in the gorge, very special place. The next day we were on the Larzac plateau which is Knights Templar land- the whole plateau was given to them so they built a number of commanderies – walled towns that had military and religious uses but mainly for growing and storing food for the Crusades. After the Templars were abolished the lands were given to the Hospitallers but thats another story. We visited a couple of the sites which were fascinating if you’re into that sort of thing.

So, after the Knights Templar we were in Cathar country – now this is something else , the Aude region of  Languedoc – it has everything, vineyards ( producing some very very nice rose at 2e!) beaches, the canal du midi, Beziers, Castles on the top of mountains ( more Knights Templar) and best of all the sunshine!!! At last – a chance to get the swimsuit off and get some rays so we did, even had a rest day by the canal and a lovely village called Colombiers. And the weather stayed good for another couple of days while we explored the region- I really wanted to see some of the Cathar castles – one of them Queribus was the last bastion before the Cathars were wiped out so we headed there- quite a long trip so when we got there I was a little disappointed to find that the road up to the castle was so steep that we couldn’t take Betsy. But I wasn’t going to let a little thing like a 3 km hike up a mountain on the hottest day stop me- no sir! So up I went leaving Irene and Kye snoozing the afternoon away. And it was a slog but for me was worth it- stunning views and a great castle. Thankfully a very kind French chap drove me down again for which I was truly grateful.

So, after that it was time to get across to the west coast as Irene was booked on a flight   Bilbao –so on Sunday we headed off along the motorway so a very easy journey and only took about 4 hours, we ended up in a small town down the coast from Biarritz with the most stunning surfing beaches and still lovely sunshine till Mon am, not stopped raining since!. So, it was an amazing 10 days, covered over 1500 k’s, had some great food, lots of laughs and much too much wine.

And next- well I’m heading further into the Pyrenees to St Jean Pied de Port the starting point of the Camino – will blog more frequently so its not as long. Enjoy the photos and by for now.

Well, here I am again after a break of nearly a year. Yes- am just two days away from the off - going to France and turning right this time, heading for the Iberian peninsula - thats Spain and Portugal to most of us. And due to public demand I will be blogging as I go.

The gang's all here and raring to go - probably all looking a little older and in some cases a bit rusty,  ( I leave you to decide which of the team that description relates to). Its been a good year, lots of great things happened especially over the summer, been lovely to spend time with old pals and to make new friends. Huge thanks to Sally who has opened her home to Kye and I for the majority of the time, I know she is looking forward to having her peace and quiet  back and not dreading the postman arriving every morning - what is it about dogs and postmen???

Anyway- will be setting off on Sunday morning, Irene is coming for the first week - heading down to southwest France first to spend some time in the Cathar country then after I drop her at Bilbao I am going to follow the Camino to Santiago de Compostela - some of you may have seen the film The Way, if you have you will have an idea of the wonderful scenery that awaits especially over the Pyrenees. I will try not to talk about the weather too much this time, would be great to receive comments over the blog as it stops me feeling as if I am talking to myself.
So, bye for now and see you in France!!