Last few days......

Picking up from where I left off-  Salamanca is a very beautiful city - one of the oldest universities in Europe, predates Oxford which is where it reminds one of- bit of plagiarism there I feel. The buildings are made of sandstone so they were glowing in the evening sunshine- would be wonderful lit up at night. And its also a very lively city due to the university population, the streets were swarming with people at 8pm, just coming out for a stroll and a drink - it was great. Unusually there are two cathedrals as they didnt demolish the old one - they are connected, it was fascinating to see the differences between the two -  much preferred the old one if only because there is a wonderful altarpiece painted by an Italian artist - knocks the Spanish artists into a cocked hat as my Dad would say ( though why I'm not sure) -and the carvings on the front door- well, just as good as Chartres and thats saying something!

So from Salamanca I started heading northwest - had decided to change my ferry and go from Roscoff, in Brittany so a long drive ahead. I was aiming to cross the Pyrenees again and revisit St Jean Pied de Port but on the way explored part of the Burgos province - stayed just outside a medieval village called Covarrubias on a very strange, but very pleasant, site - it was mainly static caravans, and long term tents- the type that have little picket fences and gardens, a real little community - in between were a few bits of rough ground - well, these were the pitches - suited me perfectly, no other vans or campers - every one was very friendly, 10 mins walk from the village and wonderfully peaceful. Another medieval village not far away- St Domingo de Silos is famous because of the monastery - it was there that the original recordings of the Gregorian chants were made in the 90's- yes, it was all their fault - mind you in the flesh it is really very soothing.
Really enjoyed my time in the area - stunning scenery and I had one of the most amazing drives from there up towards the Pyrenees- 70k's on back roads through pine forests, lakes, high and wide gorges- sadly photos just dont do it justice.

When we got to the foothills of the Pyrenees I had a little chat with Betsy, we agreed that in her own time would be fine but up she whipped - like a spring chicken- no thats not a good metaphor- like - oh, a Ford StreetKa (!) and how did i repay her? By reversing slap bang into a tree on the campsite - a huge tree no less. And to make matters worse it was in the afternoon so everyone was around and was watching- and you  just knew what they were thinking when I got out- grrr. Going to be a replacement bumper when I get back- such a nuisance.
But the visit was just as I had hoped as I met up with Delphine, the lady from the pilgrim hostel I worked with in 2013, shes looking good for 80 isnt she?

Since then, well have had a couple of days of quite tiring driving - am about a couple of hours away from Roscoff tonight, so will have a couple of days to enjoy the Brittany coastline and lovely food. Realised today that its a good idea to come back to the uk via France- its like a half way house - the sun is shining but a few degrees cooler, the roads are much busier, the prices are higher, drinks are smaller and theres no free food - all good preparation for next week.

So, its been a good trip - just over 7 weeks which isnt bad going in Betsy and on my own most of the time - hope you've enjoyed hearing about it, I've had a ball- met some great people, seen some amazing places, eaten delicious food, learned a lot of history, been bird watching, diving, and my spanish is improving. But the thing that I love the most is being able to see the amazing world that we live in - what  a lucky girl. And on that note,
Bye for now.

Have you missed me??

Its only been a week but seems so much longer - been to quite a few places and seen a lot but nothing to match El Rocio- but more of that later - firstly Sanlucar de Barrameda photos, am guessing you all know what the inside of a bodega looks like so thought you'd like a nice sunset -taken from where I was parked

Good job that I liked the aire as I had to stay a bit longer than anticipated due to a slightly, thankfully only slightly, dodgy mussel, if it had been a real rogue I would have booked myself into a hotel but that wasnt necessary, but after three days  I had no power left in the leisure battery so had to move on - so off I went to El Rocio - now this is an unusual small town just across the river from Sde B on the fringes of the Donana National Park. Its a pilgrimage centre, famous for the Whitsun fiesta which attracts around a million, yes a million devotees. What makes it so unusual is that there arent any roads, just sand and as there are more horses than cars all the properties have hitching rails - its like stepping into the wild west- really quite peculiar. In common with all pilgrimage centres there are lots of shops selling souvenirs but here its different- they're selling cowboy boots and flamenco dresses cause evidently this is a real  party - lasts three days(sorry photos go where they want...)

 As I mentioned there is also a national park and I really enjoyed myself birdwatching- well anyone would when its flamingoes, spoonbills, herons and the like- it was just fab to be near them in such beautiful surroundings.
The other thing that this little area is famous for is explorers - would you believe that in this small area not only Christopher Columbus set sail but also Magellan left from here on the first circumnavigation of the globe- all this kept me happy for days as I'm sure you would appreciate!

By now I was running out of places to visit in this little corner of Andalucia and so it was time to head north, visit some parts of Extramadura that I had missed out last time - - lots to see - in one day I went down a gold mine ( couldnt find any leftovers), down some amazing caves- (they filmed part of Journey to the Centre of the Earth there) and to a museum of Jamon to learn all about the production of the finest Iberian ham ( and have a tasting - delish)and of course drove through some stunning scenery. One of things I love is seeing the storks on their nests - all my other trips I've only seen empty nests - they're everywhere  that has a flat surface- electric pylons seem to be a favourite

By now I was starting to feel a bit weary - there's a surprise I hear you say, so decided a couple of stop days were called for so headed into the mountain, a misguided idea that it would be a bit cooler. Last eve it was still 32deg at 10pm so you can imagine what the day temp has been like- so today i headed off again and am now on the outskirts of Salamanca.
And thats it for tonight- I'm off to bed. Hope you are still enjoying these missives -I'm enjoying living them, well most of the time... till the next time,
All blessings

City Break Part 2

On my penultimate evening on the campsite, just as I had been thinking it would be nice to have a conversation up popped a new van- Gb plates with a lone female traveller- well as luck would have it we got on like a house on fire, shared a tasty meal at the restaurant and swapped contact details. AnnMarie lives in the deepest part of Pembrokeshire so unlikely to bump into her there but she is thinking of an Italian trip next year too so you just never know...

So after seeing the horses I headed back to Bolonia to check out the weather conditions - lovely to be back  in the great outdoors- hadnt appreciated how claustrophobic the campsite had been - the beach was beautiful and the sea calm.  Next day up early and off I went to do my course. Spent quite a bit of time doing the theory as this was much more intensive, eventually got into the sea, lovely and calm - and realised that I didnt like it-  couldnt get on with my breathing ( which is quite a useful thing to do!) Ian was great, very patient and we spent a lot of time just sitting on the sea floor but it really wasnt for me. When I went snorkelling later and really enjoyed myself I realised I had made the right decision - I hadnt enjoyed the first dive but I put that down to nerves and poor conditions - anyway, done it once and still got a certificatethough the rain). Maybe if I had persevered 30 years ago.....

No reason to stay so next morning bid a fond farewell to Bolonia and drove to Sanlucar de Barramunda further round the coast, via a great hill town called Medina Sidonia - amazing history and stunning views ( even through the rain) - S de B is famous as the home of Manzanilla production - its the same process as sherry , the difference is due to the sea wind - and it does taste different; its seafood which is just amazing- the fish market - wow; and also for holding horse races along the beach in August. Its on an estuary so the beach when the tide goes out is somewhat reminiscent of Southport! And its a gret Spanish town- again lots of history - first circumnavigtion of the world from here.
So have had good couple of days ad will be moving on tomorrow- know where I'm going the next couple of days but after then not sure, will see what the weather forecast  is- will follow the sun!

And on that note wil sign off - will get some photos on next time. Internet access is a bit of a challenge as my dongle ( ooer missus) isnt working.

Bye  for now

oh yes, wanted to mention the sunflower fields, as far as the eye can see- all doing their thing. - great

My City Break

Hi all
Well, think I left you just as I had arrived in Puerto de Sta Maria- across the river from Cadiz - so am getting right into the west of Andalucia. This whole area really is living up to expectations- they say that Cadiz province is the essence of Spain distilled into one corner and 'm not going to disagree - apart from the wonderful coast line, there are mountain ranges, forests, small towns and villages that seem totally deserted in the afternoons, white villages and towns clinging to the mountain edges- some do look as if one strong wind would blow then down! Of course, amazing history and lots of remnants of the Moorish occupation. Great food, delicious local wines and of course sherry and manzanilla - have I sold it to you??? And as a bonus not many motorhomes around- hurrah!! lots of Dutch and Spanish, very few Brits.

So, I was staying on a campsite, had planned to stay for 5 nights so I could visit Jerez and Cadiz using public transport, (who says there's no planning on my trips?) but what I hadnt appreciated was that it was 2.5k walk from the site to the town and as it was another .5k from my pitch to the gate that meant 6 k's walking before the sightseeing started!
But it was worth it- Cadiz is a lovely city - going in by ferry meant that you get a great view of the old city. Cadiz is said to be the oldest city in Europe- goes back to the Phoenicians and you can get a real feel of it especially in the back streets.

Wasnt as impressed as I expected with Jerez- felt a lot poorer and run down - its famous for sherry production, flamenco and the Dancing Andalucian horses who are amazing - the obvious close connection between the horse and rider is very special- the only part I didnt enjoy was when the horses were doing the amazing leaps and jumps that they do- felt like a circus act though of ourse the crowd were going wild!

Going to pop some photos on now - will do part 2 later- need to go to the shops

Life as a beach bum

well, seems an age since I last chatted with you, its probably not, just that so much has happened. Firstly - where am I now? well am on a campsite just outside Puerta de Santa Maria which is opposite Cadiz this is going to be my base for a few days while  visit Cadiz and Jerez - its a great town in its own right, very Spanish; its good to have a bit of city energy. Just get the weather report out of the way - its hot!! Very hot and very windy but not as windy as it was round the coast - more of that later.

So, what have I been up to - well, stayed on the kite surfers beach for 5 nights - it was just outside Tarifa as I said before, very relaxed, great mix of people and a good place to explore the area. Admit to being a bit disappointed in Tarifa itself- think I'm here 20 years too late- though the architecture is as I imagined- a very Moroccan feel to it, really good to wander around.
But the beauty really is in the beaches - difficult to get a good photo but they should give you an idea. The days passed very easily - had to take Betsy out to charge up the leisure battery but that was fine cause I found some interesting places- best one being Bolonia - said to be Spains best kept secret - stunning beaches, cork forests and a ruined roman city- Claudio Baelo - had been very important in its time.

And due to one of those great coincidences I ended up staying there for four nights. What happened was that last Sunday I met up with a long lost ( well, not known if truth be told) cousin Dan and his fab family Patsy, Africa and Lapita - I had been given his details by Brenda my Mum's niece and so we arranged to meet in Bolonia for lunch. Bit of a muddle finding each other but once we did- wow, we all got on like, well, long lost family, it was so much fun. Because we stayed on the beach so long and because of the heavy traffic they would have encountered they decided to stay, so I did too. Another meeting at breakfast and fond farewells - know we'll keep in touch.

So, there I was, in a lovely area, whats a girl to do? Well, bum around a bit more of course but then I met Ian - an English diving instructor - well, some of you may know that I tried diving when I was in Saudi - over 30 years ago, and didnt get on very well, but have always wanted to try again. So - thats what I did and succeeded but must say I think only thanks to his patience - nearly didnt go through with it - nope, not the fear of drowning but the thought of having to struggle into a wetsuit - yes, vanity nearly won through!! So have done my first dive but the course I did was a very basic one and as Ian has offered me a great price I am going to go back and take the next level - need to do 5 dives and more training but then will be able to go and dive anywhere- as it is I do have a certificate and we know how much I like them. So, another ambition achieved!!

I would have stayed and done it this week but a very strong wind - a Levante has blown up, -its so strong round there its hard to stand up in it and old Betsy was rocking and rolling at night- no - Ian and I have a purely professional friendship- minds out of the gutter please....Mind you I was ready for stop on a campsite after 9 nights wild camping-it is possible to wash your hair in a litre of water but will admit that a shower is much more pleasant.

So now I'm in the heart of Andalucia - fantastic seafood, flamenco and the horses of Jerez. Can get a ferry to Cadiz from here and a train to Jerez so Betsy's having a rest though looking at the map I haven't really travelled very far but am having a fantastic time.

Right, time to put some photos on, will be in touch again when i leave this area- till then, hope you are all well.
Jx